Top Down Bottom Up Shades, have a shade on top of a shade.
So restring it like 2 shades. The middle rail is the bottom of the top shade
and the top of the bottom shade.
Be sure to check your cord lock for wear, if there are any groves worn into the plastic this will cut the cord again after you restring.
You will need a Phillips and slot screwdriver, and a pair of sharp scissors.
Cord Replacement & Tune-Up
Step 1)Remove the shade assembly from the installation brackets: Raise the shade all the way to compress the fabric. Loosen the tab screw on the back of each mounting bracket. Tilt the back of the headrail down to remove the rail from the brackets (Figure 1). Place the shade assembly on a clean work surface. Note: If you have a steel bracket without the tab screw, the shade may be removed utilizing the same tilting action shown below.
Loosen the tab screw and tilt the back of the headrail down to remove the shade assembly from the installation brackets.
Step 2)Remove the cordlock with its cover from the headrail and remove one end cap from the moving (bottom) rail: Your shade may be equipped with either cordlock "A" (Figure 2) or "B" (Figure 3). After noting how the cords are threaded through the cordlock, cut the cords at the end of the rail and pull the cut ends through the cordlock. Retain the cordlock with its cover and end cap for re-use. Pull the cut cords through the cordlock and discard them, unless a stop-ball is used (see step 3).
|Figure 2: (Cordlock "A'): Remove the cordlock and the cord-side end cap. Cut the cords at the end of the rail. ||Figure 3: (Cordlock "B'): Remove the cordlock and the cord-side end cap. Cut the cords at the end of the rail.|
Step 3)If a stop-ball is used; retain all the components of your stop-ball system for re-use except for the equalizer and attached cords: Your shade may be equipped with either the stop-ball "A" or the stop-ball "B" system (Figures 4 & 5).
Stop-ball "A" System:Insert a small screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the stop-ball and carefully pry off the stop-ball cover (Figure 4).
While holding the tassel cord in one hand, lift with the other hand the universal cover to expose the equalizer housing containing the equalizer (Figure 5). In both systems, pull out and discard the equalizer and lift cords.
|Figure 4: (Stop-ball "A"): |
Open the stop-ball to discard the equalizer and lift cords.
|Figure 5: (Stop-ball "B"): |
Lift the cover to access and discard the equalizer and lift cords.
Step 4)Remove the rails from the fabric (Figure 6). Slide the rails off the end of the fabric opposite the cordlock. Notice that only the top and bottom cells of the fabric stack fit inside the rails. These cells are reinforced with aluminum slat material, called "filler strips".
Important: Do not remove or change the position of the filler strips.
Slide the rails off the end of the fabric which was opposite the cordlock.
Step 5)Pull the washers and cord lengths from the bottom of the fabric stack. Discard these materials.
Step 6)Remove and discard the old cord guides, and install new ones (Figure 7). Replace the existing cord guides with the same size cord guides from the replacement kit. The cord guides fit through the holes in the top cell and filler strip. Push the new cord guides into position with your thumbs. The ends of the cord guides should align with the edges of the fabric.
Remove the old cord guides and install new ones.
Step 7)Measure and cut one cord length for each rout hole in the shade. The length should be equal to twice the shade height plus the shade width.
Step 8)Using the cord threading tool, thread the cord lengths through the cord guides and rout holes in the fabric stack (Figure 8). Push the end of the tool through the fabric and cord guide from the bottom. Then slip the cord through the loop in the tool and pull a small amount of cord out the bottom. Repeat this procedure for each cord rout hole.
Slip the cord threading tool through the fabric stack from the bottom, thread the cord through the loop, and pull the cord through the cord guide and rout hole.
Step 9)Tie a washer onto the bottom end of each cord. The washer prevents the cord from slipping back through the fabric stack. Tie a triple knot below the washer as shown (Figure 9). Any excess cord will be hidden when the bottom rail is re-installed. Pull the cord from the top of the fabric to make the washer snug against the bottom.
|Figure 9: Tie a triple knot below the washer.|
Step 10)Slide the bottom rail onto the bottom cell and filler strip. The cell fits into the large opening in the rail, called the fabric channel (Figure 10). Be careful not to snag the fabric when sliding on the rail.
The top and bottom cells fit into the fabric channel in the rails. Before sliding on the headrail, run the cords along the center of the top cell toward the cordlock side of the fabric stack. Keep the cord guides straight and do not cross the cords.
Step 11)Slide the headrail onto the top cell and filler strip (Figure 10). Run the cords along the center of the top cell toward the cordlock side of the fabric stack. Keep the cords neat and do not cross them. Maintain a slight tension on the cords when sliding on the rail, and make sure the tops of the cord guides remain straight. Again, be careful not to snag the fabric.
Step 12)Thread the cordlock with its attached cover. Insert the cord threading tool through the bails and out the top of the cordlock. Thread the cords through the loop and pull them all the way through.
With cordlock "A": At the top of the cordlock, route the cords along the cord channel out the end of the cordlock (Figure 11).
|Figure 11 (Cordlock "A"):|
Use the cord threading tool to thread the cords through the cordlock. Route the cords along the cord channel out the end of the cordlock.
With cordlock "B": At the top of the cordlock, route the cords under the plastic tab and out the end (Figure 12).
|Figure 12 (Cordlock "B"):|
Use the cord threading tool to thread the cords through the cordlock. Route the cords under the plastic tab and out the end.
Step 13)Install the cordlock and end cap onto the rails (Figure 13). Push the end cap securely onto the bottom rail. Slide the cordlock with its attached cover along the cords to the end of the headrail. Push the cordlock onto the headrail, keeping tension on the cords to avoid pinching or twisting them. This procedure is the same for cordlocks "A" and "B,".
|Figure 13: Install the cordlock and end cap onto the rails.|
Step 14)Re-install the shade assembly. Be sure the cordlock is locking the cords to hold the fabric compressed. With the cordlock facing you, slip the headrail into the installation brackets (Figure 14). The front lips on the brackets fit into the front groove on the top of the rail. Push on the rail until it snaps into place. After making sure that no fabric is trapped between the headrail and the tabs on the installation brackets, use a screwdriver to tighten the tab screw on each bracket until it is just snug. Important: Do not overtighten the screw.
|Figure 14 :|
Slip the headrail into the installation brackets. Do not overtighten the tab screws.
Step 15)Install the equalizer onto the lift cords. The bottom rail should be raised all the way and the cords should be hanging freely from the cordlock. Your shade may be equipped with no stop-ball, or the stop-ball "A" or "B" system, as mentioned earlier.
¬†If Stop-ball "A" system is used: First thread the cords through the slot on the top of the stop-ball (Figure 15) and install the equalizer underneath the stop-ball.
|Figure 15 (Stop-ball "A"):|
First thread the lift cords through the top slot.
If Stop-ball "B" system is used: First thread the cords through the hole in the top of the cover (Figure 16) and install the equalizer underneath the cover. In all systems, take the new equalizer supplied with your kit, and snap the wedge piece away from the body piece. Slip the cords into the equalizer body, with the small end of the body toward the cordlock. Position the equalizer body about 1" below the point where you want the bottom rail to be when the shade is closed. Then slide the wedge into the body from the bottom (Figure 16). The rib on the back of the wedge fits against the cords. Do not lock the wedge completely into position; the equalizer should remain partially installed until you perform the next step.
|Figure 16 (Stop-ball "B"):Thread the lift cords through the top hole.|
Step 16)Adjust the shade assembly. Lower the shade until it is completely extended. Loosen the equalizer by holding the cords and sliding the body upwards to release the wedge. Level the bottom rail by pulling on each cord individually, or adjust the shade drop by moving the cords as a group. Then, while holding the lift cords at equal tension, move the equalizer body against the cordlock and slide the wedge securely into the body making sure the locking tab is against the cords holding them securely in place. After double-checking that the bottom rail is at the desired position, lock the wedge in place by pushing it against a flat surface until it is flush with the body.
Important: Be sure not to cross the lift cords; if crossed, the wedge cannot adequately secure them.
Step 17)If no stop-ball is used; tie on the tassel (Figure 17). With the shade closed, thread the cords through the tassel and tie a double knot in the cords where you want the tassel to hang. Typically, this is about two-thirds down the shade from the cordlock. Keep the cords taut when you tie them to avoid any slack. Trim off the excess cord.
Thread the cords through the tassel. Tie a double knot in the cords where you want the tassel to hang.
Remember, there are two different stop-ball systems. One that places the equalizer in a stop-ball body (stop-ball "A ") and the other which uses an equalizer housing unit inside a cover (stop-ball "B ") -see Figures 4 & 5.
Procedures When A Stop-Ball Is Used
If your shade operates with the stop-ball "A" system, continue with the following steps. If your shade operates with the stop-ball "B" system, go to Step 21.
Step 18)After locking the equalizer in position, trim the lift cords. No more than 4" should remain below the equalizer (Figure 18). There should be enough cord length remaining to allow for future adjustment, but not so much that the cords are too bulky to fit inside the stop-ball.
After locking the equalizer, trim the lift cords.
Step 19)Fit the ends of the lift cords into the stop-ball body. The best way to do this is to twist the lift cords into position. Hold the equalizer in place with the thumb of one hand and twist the lift cords with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand (Figure 19). After each twisting motion, hold the twisted cords inside the stop-ball by scooting the thumb forward on the equalizer. Continue twisting the cords until they are tightly packed.
Twist the ends of the lift cords to fit them inside the stop-ball.
Step 20)Install the stop-ball cover. Fit the four pegs on the cover into the holes on the stop- ball body (Figure 20).
Install the stop-ball cover by fitting the four pegs on the cover into the holes on the stop-ball body.
Step 21)(for Stop-ball "B" system): Place the knotted end of the tassel cord into the slot at the base of the equalizer housing. Note: Use the new equalizer housing supplied in your kit if the existing housing is damaged.
Step 22)Wrap any excess lift cords once around the equalizer and push the equalizer back into the equalizer housing (Figure 21).
Figure 21: Insert the equalizer into the equalizer housing.
Step 23)Wrap remaining lift cords around the base of the housing and down through the slot at the bottom of the housing.
Step 24)Holding the lift cords and tassel cord taut, slide the universal cover over the equalizer housing assembly (Figure 22). Note: Use the new universal cover supplied in your kit if the existing cover is damaged.
Figure 22: Slide the universal cover over the equalizer housing.
Step 25)After checking the shade drop and making any final adjustments, trim any excess lift cords flush with the bottom of the equalizer housing.